The Calvin Klein Resort 2011 collection, shown in New York on Wednesday, June 9, was not long on revolutionary new ideas. But that’s besides the point with this brand, designed by Francisco Costa, where minimalism and a subtle tweaking of a garment’s construction forms the basis of every new collection.
This time, the small detail Costa focused on was a suture-like chain stitch that ran vertically down the length of long coats and jackets or formed a grid-like pattern of darts on chalk, tan or ivory colored silk and cotton dresses or semi-transparent waxed silk shirts.
These discreet embellishments functioned as a reduction of the female form almost to a preliminary sketch or line drawing with only the most basic geometric shapes outlined.
A stretch silk voile skirt with crisp creased seams that looked like origami-folded paper looked particularly remarkable from a technical standpoint – just don’t take it to the dry cleaners without some very specific instructions.
There was a lightness and fluidity in the silk dresses and skirts, contrasted with an almost lab coat-like severity in the linear jackets and modest mid-calf length of the hemlines. The Calvin Klein customer clearly has no time for any nonsense.
Per theCalvin Klein way, colour was kept to a minimum, except during the final passage of the show when a couple of thin velvet gowns in “meadow” green and yellow were shown. And platform wedges and pumps with colored lucite heels also added a bit of pop.
Calvin Klein Collection Resort 2011 Runway Show